Chef Marcelle Bienvenu shares her mother’s recipe for this take on Crawfish Etouffee as a stew-fay, reminding us that there are no rules in Cajun cooking.
Like gumbo, each family or regions or south Louisiana has their own. The first rule of Cajun cuisine, is that there are NO rules. Do whatever tickles your taste buds. Who makes the best gumbo – your grandmother, mother, father, someone in your family – that’s because our taste buds become familiar to what is cooked in our family circle. Like other iconic Louisiana dishes (such as gumbo and jambalaya), there are as many recipes for crawfish etouffee as there are bayous that criss-cross the state. This is a simple but delicious version that my father and mother prepared dating back to the 1960’s before crawfish was king in Acadian cuisine—when most of the freshwater crustaceans came from the Atchafalaya Basin and before crawfish ponds became prevalent.
This is a classic etouffee (etouffee means to smother in French) from south Louisiana. It’s called a stew-fay simply because of the slurry (a combination of water and flour) that’s added to thicken it up a bit. My mother was of the opinion that if you used a roux, then it became a stew. This is her recipe.
Note: When removing the crawfish from the bag, rinse the bag out with a little water and add the liquid to the pot when adding the crawfish.